Otai2 sekalian,mok tumpang tnya sikit klau main engin NA 4G15 ni.just utk speed pmulaan ja n time overtack keta.
1) tukar cleaner
2) extractor 4-2-1
3) setting computer box
4) tukar cam racing
5) sistem bikinan ekzos.
6) tukar nozzle - adakah perlu??
7) pasang fuel regulator - adakah perlu??
8) psg surbo
9) tukar cable spark plug 10mm
10) pot polish n potong head
12) potong blok n psg piston yg lebih besar

minta pndapat bg otai2 yg byk pgalamn ttg bab2 modify engin NA ni. tanpa psg tebo.
Saja just tanya n ingin tahu.utk mnambah pgalaman

bro hehe, saya boleh bagi pendapat nombor 1 saja, yang lain serahkan kepada otai...

cleaner yang power sememangnya HKS, tapi cara mahu maintainence hks memang mahu $$, kalau sudah kotor, x boleh cuci, kena tukar seluruh sponge. sponge costnya lebih kurang rm70 hingga rm100. kalau sudah lama pakai, itu sponge pandai keluar biji serpihan dan merosakan carburator ataupun tb... lagipun dia mahu buat bracket lagi, sebab universal.

Apexi HP memang tingkat banyak, bersih, tapi kalau sudah pakai lama, bentuk pandai senget. terutamanya kereta power yang tinggi. ini pun universal type, kena buat bracket.

Blitz di buat daripada besi, tahan kotor, bersih, tahan ubah bentuk. tapi pandai berkarat kalau kena air atau lembab, pakai lama pandai keluar karat dia.

lastly,
saya cadangkan anda pakai K&n, bersih, tahan, dan power...

kasi tukar eksos pergi 2inci pun ok bah...ada main pikup sikit..kalo pasal iar cleaner mau tukar ok jugak...tp seting pun kena cun juga...sebab ingin lebih masuk tp minyak tarak cukup masuk..kalo ada injector yg ngam buleh juga sebab buleh kasi lebih minyak...power pun ada le upgade..(suara org bukan otai leee...tau belasah injin je..sampai kong...hehehe)

tlg bg coment n pdapat otai2

garret_taz.king wrote:

Otai2 sekalian,mok tumpang tnya sikit klau main engin NA 4G15 ni.just utk speed pmulaan ja n time overtack keta.
1) tukar cleaner
2) extractor 4-2-1
3) setting computer box
4) tukar cam racing
5) sistem bikinan ekzos.
6) tukar nozzle - adakah perlu??
7) pasang fuel regulator - adakah perlu??
8) psg surbo
9) tukar cable spark plug 10mm
10) pot polish n potong head
12) potong blok n psg piston yg lebih besar

minta pndapat bg otai2 yg byk pgalamn ttg bab2 modify engin NA ni. tanpa psg tebo.
Saja just tanya n ingin tahu.utk mnambah pgalaman

Pengalaman sy dgn enjin 4G15 sy dulu, setup P&P serta skim head utk meninggikan compression. menggunakan valvespring & retainer 4G15 8V utk lebih torque. Flywheel kasi ringan/skim. Karburator asal diubahsuai dibahagian piston utk lebih minyak, Cold air Intake, Hot Bits 4-2-1 system, Ekzos direct hingga ke Muffler 2.5'

blugu wrote:

garret_taz.king wrote:

Otai2 sekalian,mok tumpang tnya sikit klau main engin NA 4G15 ni.just utk speed pmulaan ja n time overtack keta.
1) tukar cleaner
2) extractor 4-2-1
3) setting computer box
4) tukar cam racing
5) sistem bikinan ekzos.
6) tukar nozzle - adakah perlu??
7) pasang fuel regulator - adakah perlu??
8) psg surbo
9) tukar cable spark plug 10mm
10) pot polish n potong head
12) potong blok n psg piston yg lebih besar

minta pndapat bg otai2 yg byk pgalamn ttg bab2 modify engin NA ni. tanpa psg tebo.
Saja just tanya n ingin tahu.utk mnambah pgalaman

Pengalaman sy dgn enjin 4G15 sy dulu, setup P&P serta skim head utk meninggikan compression. menggunakan valvespring & retainer 4G15 8V utk lebih torque. Flywheel kasi ringan/skim. Karburator asal diubahsuai dibahagian piston utk lebih minyak, Cold air Intake, Hot Bits 4-2-1 system, Ekzos direct hingga ke Muffler 2.5'

broo,ni utk kaburator ka injection? klau utk engin fuel injection mcm mn broo??

Oversize Throttle body, injector 210/240cc, piston pakai yg hi-compression punya

blugu wrote:

Oversize Throttle body, injector 210/240cc, piston pakai yg hi-compression punya

Maksud oversize throttle body,throttle body yg standard tukar p yg blh setting manual? n tukar injector p yg lbh besar lg,contoh mcm injector VR4,GSR,mivec or 2E..

garret_taz.king wrote:

blugu wrote:

Oversize Throttle body, injector 210/240cc, piston pakai yg hi-compression punya

Maksud oversize throttle body,throttle body yg standard tukar p yg blh setting manual? n tukar injector p yg lbh besar lg,contoh mcm injector VR4,GSR,mivec or 2E..

Yup... kalau tukar semua itu, komfom kreta ko senang² overtake kreta depan tuh...

blugu wrote:

garret_taz.king wrote:

blugu wrote:

Oversize Throttle body, injector 210/240cc, piston pakai yg hi-compression punya

Maksud oversize throttle body,throttle body yg standard tukar p yg blh setting manual? n tukar injector p yg lbh besar lg,contoh mcm injector VR4,GSR,mivec or 2E..

Yup... kalau tukar semua itu, komfom kreta ko senang² overtake kreta depan tuh...

Goa caya sama lo broo ada tip2 lain lg klau mo main engin NA fuel injection ni??

lagi satu klu sekadar mau main2 ja bulilah
buang segala seat depan/belakang/sparetayar kasi
tinggal seat driver ja.. terasa power busko.

Tenz wrote:

lagi satu klu sekadar mau main2 ja bulilah
buang segala seat depan/belakang/sparetayar kasi
tinggal seat driver ja.. terasa power busko.

itu sdh jd keta drag tu geng.hahahah

Nak lagi power...
Tukar pergi enjin MIVEC!!

blugu wrote:

Nak lagi power...
Tukar pergi enjin MIVEC!!

Itu kompom POWER!! brapa sdh price engin MIVEC broo skrg? d kk,kalu 2 thn lepas rm7k huftcut

Harga halfcut mivec at JB.. RM9k - RM9800, kalau di Sabah, barang rare & slalu disimpan oleh kedai Halfcut, mungkin add 30% dari harga semenanjung...

biar lah standard....kacau head cukup....kalu inda puas hati.kasi oversize piston and letak turbo...kalulah jadi laju..

sekarang mivec dalam 8 9 k huhuhuhu tp memang mantap...no komen terus...tp otai2 sekalian tolong kawan kita ni mybee dia mau modi enjin 4g15 dia ni.. main pikup or long ka ni?? kalau mau men pikup tukar flywheel n linning cluch os gaiken or ecedy, kalau ada jenis double plate lagi bagus hehe tp setakat ni belum ada lagi yang pakai double plate hehe ka pastu pakai piping 1.8-2.0 inci jek, jangan pakai besar pasal enjin masih standart takut semput...

giukmanga wrote:

sekarang mivec dalam 8 9 k huhuhuhu tp memang mantap...no komen terus...tp otai2 sekalian tolong kawan kita ni mybee dia mau moding enjin 4g15 dia ni.. main pikup or long ka ni?? kalau mau men pikup tukar flywheel n linneng cluch os gaiken or ecedy kalau ada jelis double plate lagi bagus hehe tp setakatni belum ada lagi yang pakai double plate hehe ka pastu pakai pipeng 1.8-2.0 inci jek jangan pakai besar pasal enjin masih standart takut semput...

itu cadangan yg bgus,saja mo tau mcm mn mo modify injin standard 4G15 injection ni..mo share pgalaman..dpt jg bg suggestion sama mmber otai yg mo modify injin NA ni tanpa masuk turbo

Ni aku ambik artikel yang mungkin buli pakai


Group 1 Modifications


The group 1 modifications are designed for the every day driver, wanting improvements across the board without sacrificing road comfort, fuel economy or driveability. These are also the baseline modifications for the more extensive Group 2 modifications. Standard horsepower for the vehicle is 65kw on average at the flywhee.
1. Quick Shifters


The Mitsubishi gear shifter system is one of the better ones on the market. But that does not mean that people do not want to improve them. This is one of those modifications that can be done at any time. The RPW Modified units suit most people who want something to reduce the long throw and give a more precise feel to where the gears are located. For those performing any level of competition work, or just want something a little more extreme, the Rally Spec Unit reduces overall movement by as much as 65% over stock.
2. Air Filters & Cold Air Induction Kits


The factory air box system on these vehicles, is quite restrictive. There are several ways to free them up - we recomend two main options

1. Fitment of a K&N Factory Replacement Air Filter for those wanting the Stock look, with improved air flow and throttle response
   
2. Fitment of a RPW Cold Air Induction Kit. We manafacture two systems, being a plastic pipe kit which looks very stockish, but flows extremely well. Alternativly a polished stainless steel system is available, exact same flow rate as the plastic pipe kit with that show car qaulity looks, and price.
   

The Cold air kit relocates to the front bumper, pulling cold air especially where utilised with a aftermarket front bumper. Of course a K&N large pod filter is used, RPW recomends purchasing one of our K&N Pre FilterCharger Kits that provides additional filtration and resistance to water. The plastic pipe kit we honestly recomend, other than being the cheapest, is one of the best bang for dollar modifications you can do.
This should produce an approximate gain of around 1 - 2kw with improved throttle response and torque. Approx costs vary between $250 - $750.00 fitted depending upon which cold air kit you fit to the vehicle.
3. Fuel Pressure Upgrades


This is the one thing we beleive that these vehicles should always have fitted regardless of how little, or much you modify the vehicle. Quite simply the factory vehicle has been tuned for maximun Economy. This has resulted in a fairly large flat spot off idle when accelerating hard from a standing start of from a cruise mode situation. The reason for this is Mitsubishi has tuned very lean on the accelerator pump settings, resulting in the lack lustre performance on throttle, but excellent fuel economy.

1. 
   Fitment of the Fuel Pressure Regulator kit eliminates this flat spot, whilst only marginally reducing your fuel economy. Without going into huge detail, trust us when we say, flat spots are eliminated, your car will actually accelerate properly without hesitating and your fear of being run over at stop signs will diminish rapidly. This is an easy bolt on kit and can usually be done in around 1 hour maximum.
   
2. 
   RPW is now manafacturig a new CNC Manafactured bored out fuel rail, which increases the fuel capacity within the fuel rail. This enables upon acceleration, a greater volume of fuel to become available before leaning out. This also reduces the tendancy to pulse the fuel and create disturbances in the fuel flow, providing a smoother transition to power. This is a new RPW product. This is a recomended upgrade for those looking to go multiple throttle bodies / forced induction later.
   

This will not produce any HP Gain, but will provide an approx 10ft/pd torque improvement at low rpm off idle. Approx cost around $450.00 fitted.
4. Exhaust System Upgrade


Okay you have done the easy mods, now time to do something about the exhaust. Contrary to what many people believe, without any form of induction work or fuel work, fitment of exhaust upgrades are only marginally beneficial. The stock system on these vehicles is usually an Asmathic 1 5/8" system. At this point you must reach your first major decision on where you wish to go with the vehicle - in summary we recomend the following options

1. Naturally Aspirated - Stock Computer - You are only after mild improvements to make the car sportier, but don't intend to do any real serious mods. This being the case stick with replacement of the stock exhaust with either a rear muffler upgrade only 2" Lukey Ultra flow oval shaped unit, or complete it with a 2" press bent exhaust system with new muffler and resonator. Cat converter should remain stock. Any larger on the system would not provide without sufficient more expensive mods, any real gains.
   
2. Naturally Aspirated - Piggy Back ECU - you are after mild to medium improvements to make the car sportier, with slightly more than average vehicle modifications. This being the case, we recomend a 2 1/4" diameter replacemenet exhaust with a new lukey resonator and muffler. No need to go mandrel bent unless you have money to throw away. This setup will handle the majority of modifications we have listed short of turbo systems
   
3. Naturally Aspirated - Haltech EMS - okay you are an extreme modder. Twin throttle bodies, DOHC Head Conversion, camshafts the list goes on. We recomend in this case either a 2 1/4" mandrel bent system or a 2 1/2" press bent system, again with lukey units. Only real difference is addition of a 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" cat converter depending upon how extreme you are going
   
4. Turbo Charged - no more need be said. But don't go throwing your money away on a 3" mandrel bent system. A 2 1/2" press bent system, cat converter with Lukey units are more than you will ever need. Keeps the car quiet, no droning and has a great sound. Mandrel bent on the 2 1/2" system could be done but honestly, you don't need it.
   

RPW Systems done in house, are garaunteed to not drone, have a great sound and provide much improved throttle response and in some cases, improved fuel economy.
These can produce small gains with the basic systems of around 2 - 5kw at the wheels, with increased revability and torque. Approx prices vary from $400 as an average.
5. Suspension Upgrade - Level 1


Suspension Package? Level 1? What is this. Basically at this point you are still have a midly modified vehicle and want to just improve the looks slightly and handling. We recomend in this situation the following

1. Replacement of stock springs with some lowering units - either Lovell 30mm or 50mm lowered units depending upon how low you want to go.
   
2. Fitment of a White Line rear sway bar. Reduces body roll without reducing driveability.
   
3. Fitment of a White Line strut brace. Reduces the tendancy of the vehicle to float on the road and makes it less sensitive to changes in road camber, resulting in less need to constanty adjust the steering wheel to keep the car driving straight.
   

This package will proved a well balanced vehicle, capable of handling corners at higher speeds, will feel safter at higher speeds especially above 100km/hr. The steering will feel more precise and you will have overall more confidence in pushing the vehicle harder.
Average pricing for a package o the above is around $800 - $1000.00 fitted.
Group 2 Modifications


Okay the basics are done and you have a plan. The following mods require you to decide, which of the following ways you are going which will be

1. Staying with the 1.5 SOHC Cylinder head assy for some further mild tweeks mostly in braking and suspension.
   
2. Upgrading to the 1.5 DOHC Cylinder head conversion, with more medium to extreme tweaks
   
3. Looking to turbocharge with either the SOHC or DOHC cylinder head assy
   

First decision - SOHC or DOHC cylinder head. We can only say one thing here - go the DOHC every time. If you don't want to do this then skip the next option and move on.
1. DOHC Head Conversion Package


The DOHC head conversion is quite simply the best option if you seriously want any more power from the vehicle. A Naturally aspirated tweaked DOHC package will outperform any SOHC variation short of turbocharging. Its superior flow characteristics cannot be beaten. By itself with the stock 1.5 SOHC computer this is worth 8kw at the flywheel with an increased working RPM range. This is a one day conversion which can be performed for under $2000.00 AUD$ by simply swapping the cylinder head and other minor components. Usually supplied by RPW with new timing belt, tensioners and all appropaite manifolds. Also comes standard with a 51mm throttle body.
You need to decide at this point because any extractor / turbocharger route requires a specific manifold / extractor for the specific cylinder head model which cannot be swapped across to the alternative.
This pakage upgrades the vehicle from 65kw on average to around 76kw on average at the flywheel. With above mods as recomended the vehicle should be close to around 80 - 83kw at the flywheel. Approx value around $1800.00 fitted.
2. Extractor Upgrade


Not all extractors are equal. But in reality, any half decent designed unit will be an improvement over the stock manifold on the vehicle, although to date RPW is the only firm that manfactures a Extractor kit for the 1.5 DOHC cylinder heads.
RPW provides our own 4-1 race design kits which bolt up to the factory cat converters without any modifications required. Increased throttle response, torque and horsepower all result from this. If you have the DOHC cylinder head you will find the results are even more impressive due to the higher flow characteristics of the DOHC head.
If your plan is to go turbo, then save your money and jump ahead several more levels. This is not for you. For everyone else, this will complete the balance of your exhaust system modifications.
This package adds around 5kw at the flywheel with increased torque and improved upper acceleration and rpm range. Approx value around $750.00 fitted.
3. Single Throttle Body Upgrade / Thermo Block Kit


Time to look at improving throttle response again. Now if you are wanting to go a little more extreme, to a twin system then you need to wait a little longer. For everyone else, time to start looking at improving throttle response, even if you are going turbo.
The stock throttle body on the 4G15 SOHC engine is 46mm and the DOHC engine is a 51mm (Not convinced to go a DOHC yet?). RPW Recomends for the majority of owners to do the following

1. For all SOHC owners, upgrading the stock to our bored out 51mm or a 55mm is very beneficial. To be quite honest, on the SOHC models, anything with the stock manifold and cylinder head over 55mm is really just not effective. The cost V gain ratio is just not optimal for anything larger than a 55mm unit.
   
2. For all DOHC owners, upgrading to our bored out 55mm is extremely beneficial.
   
3. For DOHC owners with upcoming computer mods (Piggy back ECU) then a 60mm is also very beneficial if you are remaning Naturally Aspirated and don't plan on going to a twin system. If you are going to a turbo, then stay with the 55mm.
   

Whilst this work is being done, we recomend fitting at the same time a RPW Thermo Block Kit. Consider this an extension of the cold air induction kit be reducing heat soak into the intake manifold from the engine and the throttle body which have hot water running through them. This drops the average intake tempatures by 25% overall resulting in improved combustion, fuel economy and throttle response.
This package adds 1 - 2 kw at the flywheel, but does improve throttle response and low rpm driveability. The thermoblock kit reduces heat soak and this allows the engine to maintain maximun ignition timing with max throttle response. Average price fitted is around $850.00 for both.
4. Brake Upgrades - to suit all future modifications


Before doing any further power or suspension modifications, brakes now need to be seriously looked at. The stock brakes on the front of the lancer is a 235mm single piston caliper package with drum rear brakes. Atrocious and disastrous is one of many words used in relation to the Mitsubishi brake system on these vehicles. Below in increasing order is the packages we recomend. The stock brakes run a single piston 235mm rotor package.

1. For those wanting something marginally better, and are not planning on doing ANY MORE Horsepower mods, then minor upgrading of front brakes only. Retaining stock calipers, fitment of some EBC Green Stuff brake pads and slotted Rotors is very beneficial. Improved braking by around 25% with better feel and dramatically less brake fade.
   
2. Next package recomended is to replace the rear drum brakes with a RPW Rear Disc Conversion package. This fits a Mitsubishi 260mm rear disc package with EBC Black Stuff brake pads, slotted rotors, handbrake cables etc as a complete bolt on kit. This in combination with the above brake package, will suit all but the most hardcore modifiers. Great for looks as well. Braking is improved by around another 10% with much reduced brake fade again, especially as the speed of the vehicle reduces and the rear brakes become more effective.
   
3. For those wanting the final level of brakes, fitment of a RPW 276mm Twin Piston front brake package and brake master cylinder upgrade is the final step. This part is absoloutly necessary for anyone wanting to turbocharge there vehicle in order to enable it to be permitted by the Australian Police to be licensed with a turbocharger conversion. Garaunteed no brake fade and this large rotor will fit very nicely inside of any 15" or larger rim.
   

5. Suspension Modifications - Level 2


Okay ready to take the final plunge for power and hit that turbocharger or twin throttle body with computer. Wrong. Lets take a look at your suspension again. Factory shock absorbers will incresae your braking distance, especially if they have been running inside lowered springs for 10 - 20,000km. They are marginal at best when new. Time to go for more extreme options
Shock Absorber Options - three choices here with standard type strut assembies

1. Fitment of KYB Excel-G replacement units for the more budget conscious. Retains improved handling over stock.
   
2. Fitment of KYB AGX units. These are externally adjustable and are perfect for the all round street / strip / circuit car. You can set them soft when your on the road, hard when your driving hard. Adjustment takes less than 1 minute
   
3. Fitment if Koni Sports Inserts. These are similiar to the KYB AGX units, but are serviceable and provide that little bit more control. They are a more precise unit, externally adjustable on the front only, internally adjustable on the rear. For the more sports conscious person these could be the better choice.
   

Coil over Strut Assemblies

1. We recomend the Tien units specifically manafactured for Australian Conditions. To put it quite simply, many Japanese units are set very very hard, so even on there softest unit the car is very harsh, hurts kidney's and actually has worse handling as it skips all over the road. The hardest setting on the Tien units, are equal to the softest setting on the japanese normal imported units. We cannot recomend these enough - they are simply fantastic with the ability to set your road heigh, rebound levels etc.
   
2. These Tien Units are also available to be eletronically adjusted on there rebound rates via up to one independant controller per corner, or one controller on all four units as an example. Mostly for extreme racing only.
   

The final items we recomend to improve your suspension is as follows

1. Fitment of a RPW Upgraded front engine mount. This polyurethane improved unit, reduces axle tramp and engine movement. Increases traction and reduces the vehicle ability to get that dreaded engine bounce especially on wet roads. Any serious drag racer would feel the benefits of one of these straight away.
   
2. Fitment of a Whiteline Anti Lift kit to the front lower control arms. In essence, this increases the caster of the front lower control arms and lowers there centre of balance, to provide a reduced tendancy to "Lift" the front of the car upon accelerating. Requires a wheel alignment straight away. Highly recomended.
   
3. Fitment of a White Line rear strut brace (In Coupe Models Only) for additional reduced body movement.
   

RPW Does not recomend replacing the balance of the vehicle rubber mounts with Polyurethane ones for any street going vehicle unless being used for compeition use. This results in a very very harsh vehicle on the road with much increased road noise and vibration. We feel the packages we have recomended provide that best balance of street vehicle and performance without sacrificing driveability.
6. Drive Line Upgrades


There are three main driveline upgrades whch can be done, which go a long way towards improving the reliabilty of the engine as well as driveability.

1. Billet Lightweight Front Under Drive Pulley - this unit reduces both the moving mass of the front harmonic balancer, as well as being physically smaller by around 25% diameter over the stock unit. Helps to make the car rev faster, spins up faster and higher. The reduction in drive ratio's means that the power steering and alternator are turning less at higher speeds further reducing engine load. This is just small enough to reduce load without reducing the effectivness of the operation of the alternator and power steering units. Highly recomended and very easily fitted. (These are a new item being added to the RPW line up in the near future)
   
2. Clutch Kit - At some point your clutch will need upgrading. Two options available - for naturally aspirated drivers a standard coverplate with a semi ceramic five pucker clutch disc package. This will increase clutch efficiency by 50% without any extra pedal effort required. For turbocharged vehicles, this is upgraded to a Heavy Duty unit with the cover plate strengthend by an additional 25%. This provides slightly increased pedal effort and more tendancy to be shuddery on take off's but will handle the higher torque characteristics of a turbo.
   
3. Lightweight Billet Flywheel - this has two benefits being increased strenght over stock units and also make the semi ceramic clutch units more driveable by not allowing them to shudder as much. Second benefit is that they are lighter and enable the engine to reve easier, faster with less reciprocating weight. No loss of torque but more willingness to rev quicker and harder.
   

Group 3 Modifications


Now we are down to the serious modifiers. You are usually DOHC head converters, with plans on going turbo or serious Naturally Aspirated Twin Throttle body packages. Comfort and driveability is usually second to engine performance and speed is your goal. These next levels are also the most expensive ones, but be warned, if you have not done any of the Group 1 or 2 Modifications yet, you are WASTING YOUR TIME AND MONEY. Finish them first.
1. Computer Modifications


Okay two choices. EMS or Piggy Back. Pro's and Con's. But We like to think of it this way.

1. If you are still budget conscious (And your at Group 3?), then stick with the piggy back. Don't run more than 12 psi boost or go more than say a twin 46mm throttle body package and definitly don't do any camshaft work. You will be fine.
   
2. Your not budget conscious within reason. Then EMS is the way to go. Much more advanced tuning, with options like shift lights, in built boost controllers, many many more mapping points, much finer tuning if your going over 12 psi boost or doign cam work etc this is the ONLY choice. Additionally the stock ECU even with a piggy back is unable to cope with any camshaft changes at all.
   

Haltech Interceptor / Greddy Emanage systems - provide a great unit for baseline tuning. The haltech we recomend for people who have gone all the through the Group 1 & 2 level modifications, but don't plan on going any further. The Greddy Emanage we recomend if you are going for a turbo / twin throttle body conversion due to its ability to be able to tune with larger injectors and tune properly (To a degree) with boost.
Haltech EMS systems are what RPW specialises in. We make our own plug and play ECU packages which means we can have yoru car running in around 15 minutes with a Haltech EMS system on there. There is the E6X for those wanting something simple, or the Haltech E8 for those wanting the best. With the inbuilt boost controllers, and hosts of other functions, these are way ahead of trying do piece together a piggy back with seperate boost controllers, shift lights, guages etc.
Note that RPW does not recomend plug in pre programmed computer chips. These are not tuned in real time on a dyno to suit your individual car. As you modify your vehicle you move further away from the standard average formulae of your engine output. This requries significant tuning and can only be done in real time, not on a computer 3000miles away from your car.
The interceptor units usually provide around a 5kw gain at the flywheel, with improved driveability and torque. The full EMS units provide a little more at this point, but really show there benefit later with more extensive modificaitons. Average price is around $1450.00 for a piggy back unit or around $2200.00 for a full ems system.
2. Intake Manifold Upgrade / Twin Throttle Body Conversion


If you are remaining Naturally Aspirated you have several options.

1. First you can go for a single throttle body RPW Performer Intake Manifold with Internal Ram Tubes. Massive throttle response, Haltech piggy back system great looks without extreme levels of tuning requried. Significant torque improvements and can be utilised up to a single 60mm throttle body
   
2. Upgrade utilising stock manifold, modified with fitment of a second throttle body - twin throttle body conversion. Either twin 46mm or twin 51mm throttle bodies work very nicely for a progressive throttle response and great top end rush of power. This system is fantastic and highly recomended if insurance premiums are a worry. Requires a Greddy Emanage to run this effectivly.
   
3. The third option is a combination of a RPW Performer Intake Manifold and twin throttle body. Massive plenum chamber, improved air flow, progressive throttle response, this is nearly equivelent to a qaud throttle body kit without the side effects and all of the benefits. Massive air flow and the ability to tune with a piggy back or EMS system. Not turbo compatible of course.
   

The twin / single manifold upgrades in n/a form can take the car with tuning up as high as around 110 - 115 kw at the flywheel. Twin units produce much stronger mid range acceleration, single units much broader torque from a lower rpm range. Average price fitted is around $1750.00
3. Turbocharger Conversion Package


What more can we say other than your a horsepower and boost Junkie. Welcome to the rest of the world. This combines extreme levels of torque and power, with neck snapping acceleration. It comes at a cost though, increased fuel economy, higher insurance and lots of money. But lets get something clear first.

1. Anyone beleiving they can effectivly fit a turbo kit on there car saftely, properly and legally for under $5000.00 AUD$ is just plain dreaming.
   
2. These engines in stock form will not handle above 1 PSI boost without aftermarket computer management despite what people believe. 25 : 1 rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors, moving the distributor to retard timing all these tricks - none work. Don't skimp.
   
3. 5th Injector systems are something that came and died in the 80's. Quite simply this does not distribute fuel properly to all cylinders, and still does not provide ignition timing adjustment
   

Do the job properly and although it may cost more, it will last longer, provide trouble free maintenance and be everything you want it to be.

1. For boost levels up to 10 psi can be done saftley on the stock head gasket dependant upon tuning and intercooler efficiency.
   
2. For boost levels up to 14 psi requires an upgraded decompression head gasket which RPW manafactures.
   
3. Do not boost above 14 psi on the stock piston / conrod setup otherwise you will learn what a banana conrod looks like.
   

The 4G15 SOHC engine at around 12 psi is good for around 130kw at the flywheel at the extreme. The DOHC engine for the same boost is good for around 150kw at the extreme. With forged components you can go up to as high as 180kw reasonably at around 20 psi boost
Our final advice - if 150kw is not enough for you - the finish reading this page, and instead either look for another car or look to do a engine swap to a larger mitsubishi engine.
Averrage price of a turbo kit fitted, installed with a FMIC and Haltech ECU System is around $8500 - $9000.00

thanks u all...mmg hebat kepala otai2 kt ni..
skrg ni tggl tggu cari throttle body complete ja..

piping 2'' (extractor 4-2-1)
injector 240cc

sdh d install..

Fuh ... sa jg mo ucapkan terima kasih tuk ilmu2 yg korang curah2kan di topik ni (kerna kereta ku juga NA 4g15 ;p ) ... Hidup Sioloon !!!