First topic message reminder :

ada sapa2 bule tunjuk cara wiring sound sistem kasi hilang bunyi kapal?

hahahaha.....mahal pun pandai cepat rosak ka....

hehehehehehe...cepat rosak ba kalau made in china pula bro...hehehehehe
nama jak MTX rupanya bukan original......rugi jak....

kwang2......susah juga oo...brg mahal sekali rosak sakit hati...brg murah boleh pakai tapi cepat rosak...hahaha

alala... mn da mahal trans clae.... aku pki skrg ba... hehehe... jan ckp mahal, suam2 harga ba...wakakaka

hahahahahhaa...sesuai tu suam2....wakakakakakakakaka...banyak wayar sa, wayar telekom hahahahaha....warna warni lagi.....

ko mmng.. silap2 ko yg tukang kupas tembaga telekom... hehehe gurau ja ba...

wakakakkakkaakakakakakaka..... ada kawan telekom juga cni bro, bingung dia kabel dia kena curi jak hari2....

bgs ko tny dia kalu ada stok tu bateri yg dorg simpan kat pencawang... mkuat tu batri geng.... bkn men snd ngam tu

ba ble apply da bateri pencawang ni...wakakakakakkkakakka

back tu d topic.... mgkn ada kapal lalu ba tu.....hehehe

13hb sa p KL naik kapal....!! bunyi kapal la sound kamu semua nie hahahaha>!!

na...bye-bye bro kotiak...hahahahahahahaha......check barang yang bagus2 liang...kalau telampau bagus dan murah..sms trus sa..hehehehehehehehe

ba bro kotiak... jan lpa audiobahn murah kta... & monoblok yg lg kaw dr LS4000

tony84 wrote:

ada gambar x?kurang faham sikit...

ko tengok ni video cara membuat muting plug

mana video ni bro kippo???

aiseh.. napa link tu ilang ah?


http://www.davidnavone.com/MutingPlug/Muting3.rm

Step 1. Check the Amplifiers

1a. Unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier/s and mute the signal at the input by using shorting plugs. This will isolate the amplifier from the rest of the car stereo installation. You can make shorting plugs by taking cheap male RCA plugs and soldering the centre and outer terminals together. This shorts out the input of the amplifier/s to ensure that it has zero signal.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Go straight to Step 2. Reduce The System.
No. Go to 1b.

1b. Disconnect the speakers from the amp and connect a pair of test speakers to it. Make sure the test speakers are not in contact with the car body. The purpose of this step is to ensure proper isolation of the speakers and the speaker leads from the car's chassis.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Check speakers, speaker leads and passive crossovers for proper isolation from the car's chassis. Shift passive crossovers to a location away from power cables and the car’s body.
No. Go to 1c.

1c. Isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the car. There must not be any electrical contact between the car's chassis and the amplifier, except for the grounding point.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the amplifier isolated from the chassis of the car. Make sure that the amplifier is grounded in just one point.
No. Go to 1d.

1d. Supply the amplifier with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12-Volt DC power supply.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Noise is entering the amplifier via the power supply, try changing the grounding point and add external power supply filtering. Consider changing the amplifier.
No. The amplifier has some severe problems, is totally isolated and still noisy. Replace it or have it repaired.

That is the end of Step 1. You have now either eliminated the amplifier and speakers as a problem or you have replaced a faulty amplifier. Now you can go on to Step 2.

Step 2. Reduce the System.

2a. The amplifier is known to be OK. It is now time to disconnect any signal processors (equaliser, electronic crossover, etc.) and connect the signal from the output of the head unit directly into the input of the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The noise source must be either one or more of the processors or possibly the signal route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you didn’t have any signal processors and you are using the signal cable in its normal, installed route then the problem is solved.
No. Go to 2b.

2b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the head unit and the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Permanently route the signal cables in the new route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2c.

2c. Isolate the case of the head unit from car's chassis. There must not be any electrical contact between the head unit and car chassis except for a single grounding point. Beware of antenna grounds and pullout cases!

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit isolated from the car's chassis and any other metal parts in the dash. Ground the head unit at one point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2d.

2d. Move the head unit ground to a quieter grounding point. Test a number of points and also try grounding the head unit to the same point as the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit using the quiet grounding point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2e.

2e. Move the head unit as near to the amplifier as possible. Then connect output of the head unit to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the head unit one step at a time. Check for noise after each step during the reinstallation. Once you have the head unit installed, noise free go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. Go to 2f.

2f. Supply the head unit with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12 VDC power supply. Make sure that car chassis is not in contact with the head unit.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The head unit is sensitive to noise in the supply voltage. Add power supply filtering to the supply voltage for the head unit or use an isolated power supply. You may be better to change the head unit. Once you have a head unit installed noise free, go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved.
No. There is a serious problem with the head unit. Go to Step 4 'Check the Vehicle' and/or change the head unit.

Step 3. Add Signal Processors.

At this level the amplifier is known to be good. The car's electrical system is OK and the reinstalled head unit is working fine when connected directly to the amplifier.

3a. Connect one of the Processors back into the signal path.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3b.

3b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the Head-unit and processor and between the Processor and the amplifier.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Permanently route the cables on the new quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3c.

3c. Isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a single grounding point. Connect the processor ground to the same grounding point as the head unit.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Provide isolation between the Processor and the car's chassis and permanently route the cables on the known quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3d.

3d. Since new cables and re-grounding does not help, it is time to relocate the processor very near the amplifier. Connect the output of the processor to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Reinstall the Processor one step at a time. Check for noise after each step in the reinstallation. Be careful when routing the signal cables. Remember that the car's chassis is a conductor. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3e.

3e. Power the processor with an isolated power supply. Do not let the processor touch the chassis of the car.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. The processor’s power supply in not sufficiently isolated from its audio circuitry. Either replace it or consider the permanent installation of an isolated power supply (1:1 DC/DC converter). This type of device provides a permanent power source that is well isolated from the car's chassis. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved.
No. Go to 3f.

3f. Physically separate the processor and the isolated power supply from the rest of the system by many metres. Use long signal cables.

Has the noise gone?
Yes. Something is seriously wrong with either the processor or your install/test procedures. Please repeat this level from the beginning.
No. Change Processor -- this one has design problems. Go back to 3a for the new processor.

Step 4. Check the Vehicle

The suspect car's charging and electrical systems can be checked by using the previously installed sound system in a "known quiet" car.

4a. Connect jumper cables between the batteries of the two vehicles and start the engine of the suspect car. Turn on the headlights on the suspect car and listen to the stereo on the "known quiet" car.

copy paste dari website la ni

sa pun tiatau apa dia cakap... hahahahaa..!!

alalala... sanang cerita kc pki RCA yg mahal.... player yg mahal... kompom hilang... satu lg, bny kapal tu mengkali ko pny ground tia kuat.... kc byk ground amp ko....

sama 1 lagi.... jan sekali2 tukar plug cable yg mura... atau racing.. bunyi injin tu..!! tapi diesel sa tiada plug cable jadi tia la bunyi kekekeke!!!

oooo... gitu pla taiko... aku bka la snd d knri tu... pasang yg satu ni.... mna tau hilang trs gak bny kapal yg ada skit2...

ya...cuba ko tukar balik p standet plug cable..!! OK tu..!!

jd kalu keta yg enjin besar tu..... tepaksa men enjin standet blk???

skrg aku da tukar rca pki trans..... msh ada tp sikit la....