First topic message reminder :

If you are looking for HP for NA (actually this info is from 4G9x kinds of modification, but it also can be your reference for guidance in modification):
Recommnedations

Stage 1:
(External Mods)

-Fuel Regulator
-Adjustable Cam pulley
-Plug cables (I'd recommend NGK) It has served me well over the years and still is.
-Extractor
-Exhaust piping (I'd recommend 2") For future purposes. Plus you won't lose any gains as of now either. From my experience.
-Don't forget to change the muffler as well 5zigen 304 replicas are real nice unless u can afford the real deal
-Open Pod (HKS / Apexi)
-Lightened Crank Pulley

These are basic mods which are plug and play & I reckon is doable. It is good to hear that you are doing it stage by stage. Then you get the pleasure of learning how the engine improves with every stage of modification. (Knowledge is Golden)...

....I've seen fast 1.6 4g92s (NON Mivec) shaming 1.8 93s and even 1.8 MIVECs. One example is the SDB champ for Sepang Drag Battle. The blue satria 1.6 92 NON Mivec. 11.7 - 11.9 seconds for 400M!!! That is a force to be reckon with.

Stage two:
Prolly u would need to touch on the internals:

P&P head
Bigger TB (Mivec / VR4)
Bigger Intake Monifold (GSR Turbo)
Street Cams - Reprofiled Mat Speed / PowerZone / Pipercam etc...
Piggy Back (E Manage Blue / SAFC2 depending on ur taste)
Metal Head Gasket - 1.5 / 0.4 Depending on how high a compression you want.
GearBox - for 4G9x to Mivec (LSD / Non LSD)

Stage 3:
Not so fun... ok completely hedious / ridiculous to drive daily but Rocks when you smack the pedal to the metal!

-Get rid of the street cams as it is time for the Racing Cams to shine
(Billet / Reprolied is really up to you. Billet Cams = RPW. Check whether you need racing valve springs with RPW as it would depend on the degree of the CAMS )
-High Compression Pistons
-P&P Block to support bigger pistons (Bigger is always Better!)
-Racing GearBox
-Bigger piston
-4 - 1 Extractor from powerzone / use Vtec 4 - 1 but have to mod the kaki.

copied & paste from the other forum, just for our info and guidance, cheers...

thanks for the info bro..u are the only hope..

tapi napa tuk turbo jak tue..

najim wrote:

brp naik bos klu stage one ni??????

Sy pun kurang pasti, kemungkinan dlm 8 - 14 hp, bergantung kepada setup tuning enjin lagi, kalau mahu kepastian, pergila dyno kreta anda utk kepastian yg mantap....

drakult wrote:

thanks for the info bro..u are the only hope..

tapi napa tuk turbo jak tue..

Sy sendri pun heran bro... takpa, nanti kalau sy terjumpa info² utk NA kancil sy akan update disini...

Dpt dari kancil punya forum...

ash.....i got a suggestion...


ini semua kira light modify lah:

1) pakai aftermarket extractor.......jangan tukar size ekzos piping.

2) jangan tukar muffler/silencer/midbox.

3)
pakai satu 850 solex carb yang sudah modify punya....( venturi besar,
injector needle lebih besar, dll) ....saya ada jual carb yang
dimodify-kan....pm me.

4) pakai bagus punya filter....jangan arahkan dekat radiator fan (panas lah!!) & guna heat shield.

5) beli satu adjustable cam pulley & tuning.

6) main dengan ignition timing (kasi advance/retard according to preference)......upgrade ignition coil.


kalau mau gila punya modify:

1) port n polish kepala.

2) skim engine kepala untuk increase-kan compression.

3) lightened & balanced engine crank, piston, etc.

4) guna half-race camshaft......ini banyak tricky punya!

5) ......mmmm, ada banyak lagi.....list macam tak boleh end punya!!!

anybody else has something to add?

some more info's...

Mar 26 2004, 05:00 PM Post #111

betul2 nak main NA ke ?? skim head sket, port head, cari high cam, masuk adjustable cam pulley aluminium. ekzos jangan besar sangat..better stick 1.6"-1.7" je start dari tengah. kalo start dari depan dah besau, nanti pick up hampeh..top speed tadak. harap bleh tarik panjang tapi kete tak ke mana. kalo masuk weber tu...hmmm jangan pikir pasal minyak. nak power mesti korban la petrol hehe skim flywheel sket pastu masuk clutch power sket. pakai quick shifter kasi cepat tukar gear. pastu berlatih skill tukar gear 2ke3 dengan cepat..kasi perfect skali ngan clutch...hoohooo..baru sedap launching kat traffic light. cari tayar yg best sket..pastu penting jugak suspension. cari yg agak keras sket utk mengelakkan spin banyak masa launch. ishhh macam nak ngajar drag plak ahahaha. p/s: jangan expect power giler2...NA tetap NA...cc plak kecik. berpada2 la

blugu wrote:

Dpt dari kancil punya forum...

4) pakai bagus punya filter....jangan arahkan dekat radiator fan (panas lah!!) & guna heat shield.

heat shield di open pod filter..cam mana tue ah taiko..tolong dulu orang susah nie..

blugu wrote: p/s: jangan expect power giler2...NA tetap NA...cc plak kecik. berpada2 la[/size]

nie statement paling mahal..

drakult wrote:

blugu wrote:

Dpt dari kancil punya forum...

4) pakai bagus punya filter....jangan arahkan dekat radiator fan (panas lah!!) & guna heat shield.

heat shield di open pod filter..cam mana tue ah taiko..tolong dulu orang susah nie..

^ Ini pula adalah air
filter atau penapis angin kereta jenis “open pod” bersama dengan set
heatshield dan piping. Heatshield dan piping perlu dipasang bersama
open pod air filter untuk memastikan udara yang panas tidak disedut
terus dari enjin dan aliran udara dalam piping lancar. Pemasangannya
sudah tentu melibatkan kos yang lebih dan menjanjikan kuasa enjin yang
lebih mantap kerana angin terus disedut tanpa halangan yang besar dari
luar. Aliran angin yang lebih lancar menyebabkannya lebih membantu
enjin lebih respon semasa memandu. Tetapi dari segi penjimatan minyak,
kurang dari drop in.




Info dari www.kreta.info

tabik sama lu sifu... fuu, thanks for all info...

Tuning your 350Z in stages
Stage 1

* Intake Filter or Cold Air Intake
* Cat-Back Exhaust
* Upper Intake Plenum
* ECU Reflash
* Pulleys
* Grounding Kit
* Limited-Slip Differential

Stage 1 for Naturally Aspirated VQ35 engines is a good place to start modding the Z. This list consists of several popular mods that will help you get your feet wet. You can complete the entire Stage 1 list for a relatively small amount ($600-1000). All of these parts are easy do-it-yourself installations, but you can always pay a shop or bribe a friend to do it for you. This is just a guide, and serves only as a suggested path to beginning your modding experience on the 350Z. All of these mods are suggested for those wanting to stay N/A and are recommended before moving to Stage 2 mods.
Grounding Kit

A grounding kit consists of several heavy gauge wires used to assist in electical conduction between engine components and the car's computers. Whether it's a five wire or seven wire this mod should be a consideration. Better grounding has been shown to improve horsepower, torque, fuel mileage, and throttle response. The degree of improvements will vary between cars. The improved grounding can also smooth a rough idle caused by electro-magnetic interference (EMI) as well as reduce light dimming when operating a high powered stereo system. Whether this actually adds any HP is an argument that will go on for hours. We do know that it will do 2 things:
a) It looks good in the engine bay when you open the hood
b) You will learn your way around the engine compartment during installation

Install Time: 30mins
Price Range: $45-200


Intake Filters and Cold Air Intakes

* Cold Air Intakes
* Air Filters

This is one of those things that "everybody" just has to have. Do they do much? - Depends on who you talk to, but they look nice & give you a grin every time you step on the gas. A performance intake filter will let the engine breathe easier and help all other engine mods achieve maximum performance. A full intake (also called a Cold Air Intake) will also improve air flow over the factory design. On many cars, an air intake is one of the first modifications done. It is typically a mod that can be done in about an hour and offers aesthetics/performance/sound improvements over the stock piping. Unless you're going to go "full out N/A" you will be better off with a $40 drop in K&N filter.

* Note- If Forced Induction (FI) is in your future don't bother with intakes or filters. You will only be removing it in the future & there is no point in spending good $ for something that you don't need.

Install Time: 1-2hrs
Price Range: $45-845


Samco Hoses & Python Locks

Nothing better than a good set of pipes & clamps to cool your engine down. The cost is well worth your effort. This is another one of those things that is very easy to install & you learn your way around the motor as well. Some think that this if only for "engine beautification", but if your goals include track events & higher HP this is definitely a mod for you.

Install Time: 1-2hrs
Price Range: $100-320
Engine Damper

Looks good & is easy to install. No HP gain from this mod, but it does remove vibration from the motor, which may cause you to spend some serious $'s to fix in the future. Engine torque dampers are designed to stabilize engine movement under excessive driving conditions by connecting the chassis and engine. Restricting engine movement with a preloaded engine damper, you will feel the engine response much more clearly. Engine torque will not be lost in vibrations and engine movement under throttle.

Install Time: 30 minutes
Price Range: $125-340


Short Throw Shifter

* Short Shifters

Nothing better than ripping through the gears with a short shifter. Makes hitting those "critical" shifts soooo much easier. We know the 350z already has a short shift throw, be it can be improved upon. Quick shifting is essential for performance driving and we recommend replacing the factory shifter unit with an aftermarket version that shortens the distance between the gears. Each aftermarket shifter will change the shift throw by a different amount so find the one that best suits you. Some are also adjustable. Make your Z even more fun to drive with a short shifter!

Install Time: 1 hour
Price Range: $185-250
Stage 2

Stage 1 Components Plus:

* Test Pipes/High-Flow Catalytic Converters
* Low-Temperature Thermostat
* Oil Pan
* Oil Cooler
* Engine Management System
* Clutch
* Flywheel
* Coolant Hose Kit

These aftermarket parts are going to be a bit more expensive than our Stage 1 list and will take more time & knowledge of your car to install. You will definitely see an increase in power with these added. This Stage 2 list should be tackled only after you have installed all or most of the Stage 1 mods.
Cat Back Exhaust

Looks & sound are what most guys go for. Weight plays a factor here, as well as how deep you want to dig into your wallet. A high flow exhaust system will remove exhaust restrictions and allow all future mods to achieve their maximum power potential. The 350z comes standard with 2 catalytic converters merged with a y-pipe into a single pipe with dual exit tips. A cat-back exhaust will replace all of the exhaust after the cats. There are some exhaust systems (typically JDM) that replace only the exhaust after the Y-pipe. These “Y-Back" systems are essentially cat-back systems that utilize the stock Y-Pipe. Exhaust systems also come in various setups including single / dual tip, or single / dual piping. Look around and see what suites your budget and taste. Most of the exhaust produce similar horsepower numbers for a N/A 350z. Titanium exhausts have been shown to shave approximately 40-50lbs and may be worth investing if you wish to do some weight reduction.

Install Time: 1-2hrs
Price Range: $650-2000
Hi-Flow Cats & Test Pipes

* High Flow Cats
* Test Pipes

The factory catalytic converters are very restrictive and should be replaced with larger, better flowing units. High flow cats still assist in emissions for those concerned about the environment. They also provide a little more backpressure than straight through or "Test Pipes" which may affect your tuning route. However, eliminating the cats completely can be achieve with “test pipes� which are usually straight through steel pipes. Some have complained about the sound of test pipes on stock exhaust and have chosen the more expensive “resonated� test pipes. Both remove the restrictive stock cats and will yield the same hp/tq gains. The resonated test pipes do not guarantee no-rasp exhaust tones however, and it has been found that different combinations of exhaust systems will affect the sound. We all know that most state laws prohibit this, and that we should only do this for off-road/track use (legal disclaimer).

Install Time: 2-3hrs
Price Range: $150-700
Plenum or Spacer

* Plenums
* Plenum Spacers

Let the breathing begin! You will definitely feel this one. There are a couple different manufacturers to chose from. The stock plenum slopes down towards the front of the engine. Nissan designed this in order to clear the stock strut bar and hood on the 350Z (function after form). This sloping design restricts the airflow to the front cylinders, but an aftermarket plenum can help those front cylinders breathe. Aftermarket plenums either increase the overall height or remove the downward slope in the design, allowing more volume and greater airflow to all cylinders. Higher airflow is needed to achieve more power. Some companies are offering plenum spacers that utilize the stock plenum but still increase the overall volume and may alleviate the downward slope.
*Note: Some aftermarket plenums will cause you to loose the stock strut bar, however some offer a custom strut bar for those that wish to have one.

Install Time: 1-2 hours
Price Range: $350+
Performance Radiator

* Radiator

Increase your coolant volume, and have fewer worries when you get the chance to "play" hard. Great mod to keep your engine in check while increase overall power. Some require modification to fit in the stock location, while others are direct replacements.

Install Time: 2-3hours
Price Range: $400-1000
Stage 3

Stage 1 and Stage 2 Components Plus:

* Camshafts
* Radiator
* Spark Plugs
* Headers
* Final Drive Gears

Ok now we're getting into "hard core" stuff. These mods are quite a step up from the Stage I platform & will bring warranty issues into play.
Underdrive Pulleys

Lighter rotational mass to free up HP. Can be a bit tricky to install, according to some folks. Under drive pulleys can free up some extra power and are fairly inexpensive. Throttle response will be improved due to less rotational mass of the pulleys.

Install Time: 3-5hrs See all Light Weight Pulleys.
Light weight Flywheel

Do at same time as clutch.This upgrade will help acceleration and low end power. It will be most helpful for competition driving, as it helps reduces drive train power loss. Engine revs will be noticeably faster. Rotational weight savings of 8-15 lbs are typical. It is a good idea to do this in connection with an upgraded clutch to save money in installation costs.

Install Time: 2-4hrs See all Lightweight Flywheels.
Performance Clutch

Like you want to tear into this one twice! Do them (flywheel) at the same time since you're there! While adding horsepower, you'll need to replace the stock clutch with a high performance one in order to transfer that power consistently. The stock clutch is capable of holding most N/A applications, but if you plan on driving your car hard an upgrade is essential. Clutches come in a wide range of clamping force (higher clamping force for higher horsepower applications). Try to pick a clutch that is suitable for the horsepower target of your z. Too strong of a clutch can make driving more of a pain than pleasure.

Install Time: 2-4hrs See all perfomance clutches.
Automatic Transmission Application
Valve Body

Does the same thing as the flywheel & clutch for the MT guys.
High Stall

Stall Converter - enough said
Throttle Body

Relatively Easy install, but may or may not cause an warranty issue with your Techs. Larger butterfly valve allows for more air to flow into the system. Image
Headers

Four words: Long Tube, Equal Length = WOW Replacing the restrictive stock manifold with the equal length/long tube design of headers will allow better and more efficient exhaust scavenging which improves horsepower and torque in the mid to upper rpm range.

Each individual exhaust port is treated to its own separate primary tube instead of merely dumping into the shared main pipe of a stock manifold. The equal length primary pipes converge at a single, larger diameter point or collector. The collector then leads to the main exhaust pipe. Gains have averaged anywhere from 10 to 15 rwhp from most aftermarket headers. Install is generally considered a difficult one.

* forget about these if TT FI is even a thought. Tough install that you will need to remove is you go TT.

Stage 4

* Return Fuel System
* Fuel Injectors
* Fuel Pump
* Pistons
* Rods

Those mods for guys that can't leave well enough alone!
Heads

Port & Polish you're looking at some serious coin here.
Cams

you will need some time & a decent set of tools or a shop to do this one.
Fuel Rails

Remember - More is better!
Larger fuel injectors

Remember the comment from the fuel rails.
3.9 Final Drive

You will lose some top end speed from this, but you'll love it coming out of the corners at the track.
High Compression Pistons

12.5 of higher will gain you some HP, but the cost will be the need to run higher octane gas or race fuel.

IF you really have $'s to burn & want to stay FI: 4.3 L AEBS Stroker Kit - nothing better than displacement.

* It is generally thought that if you want to go this route that you may want to build the engine from scratch & add Twin Turbos for all that you can get from the cost of the AEBS kit.

Notes
ECU Reflash

Time to tie it all together. Maps have been created to match everything listed so you get the most from your machine. The reflash is at it's best when you've completed all your "power" mods. If you decide to end at Stage III then that is when you need to have this done. A/F mapping will require you to provide a dyno sheet with the A/F print out & a list of your mods. All of the mods listed thus far will boost the performance of your Z. However to get the most out of the mods your Z needs to know they are there! An ECU flash with a custom program based on your location, fuel type, and performance mods will bring the air/fuel ratio back to the desired level. Timing adjustments, raised rev limiter and speed limit removal can also be accomplished. You can get a few more horsepower from each mod by getting an ECU flash. If performance is truly important, do not skip this step.

Edit: A piggy-back ECU (such as the UTEC, which RULES) plus a dyno tune is arguably the safest and most efficient way of getting the most out of your mods. You should make sure the mixture is optimized across the powerband, IMHO. An ECU flash estimates the optimum amount of fuel to put in based on your mods. A dyno tune, fine-tunes the mix, allowing a more precise adjustment based on an infinite assortment of improvements.

Install Time: (ship out for reflash) See all ECU's

Selamat pagi Bro Blugu... that was a brilliant and 'mantapzz' information.....believe me...i''ll copy out that stuff and make a file for it...Blugu..can u do like this...show a picture of any part and u explain more about that part?

due to many repeating new topics asking about modifying 4g13.4g15, i would like to give some guidelines on modifying these engines.

1. intake and exhaust
intake: keep the original air filter. those apexi, K&N, HKS power filters won't increase HP dramatically on small, NA engines. but CAI (cold air intake-DIY) usually help.
won't increase fuel consumption(standard)

exhaust: follow original route, 1.7/1.8 inch is the best. use big mufflers. those "tembak bulan" piping will only cause problems with authorities. for max acceleration, don't use mid silencer(bullet). for balance between pickup and top speed, use 1 bullet. for better top speed, use 2 (or more for hardcore) bullet. use powerzone extractor, it is the best for 4g13/15
slightly increase fuel consumption

2. spark plug & cable
best spark plug cable is the standard one. for spark plug, i think bosch super 4 is recommended. don't use platinum, iridium, or others...

3. port and polish
this one is the best mod. clean out carbon from engine head. (like top overhaul). can feel better power across all rpm range.

4. camshaft
get powerzone camshaft. for more hardcore users, use semi/full race cams. remember to make sure fuel supply is enough.

5. valves
not necessary to install bigger valves, unless u got valve fetish

6. brakes
just get wira 1.6 front brake system. more than enough braking power.

7. suspension
standard items are good enough. make sure that they are in good condition.

8. tuning-the most important part
make sure that ur engine is properly and regularly tuned. and make sure that u have enough lubrication(i destroyed 2 engines because of neglection of lubrication)

9. rim size
most ideal is 14inch, not too heavy, not too small.

10. fuel regulator
this is a good mod. recommended as first mod.

11. performance carbs
hehehe this one, no need to say la. weber is the best. twin 40dcoe for those who doesn't mind its fuel consumption. 40dcnf for moderate power increase. additional/better fuel pump supplies more fuel to the carb.

12. gearbox mods
manual-use wira 1.6 clutchplate. lighten flywheel(lose top speed)
auto-no hope. just dont over rev ur engine. 1.8 supertouring auto box fits saga 1.5 engine perfectly.

13. engine block mods-lighten crankshaft, crank pulley, ...
piston- try to keep them standard.

14. for those using 4g13/15 with siemens ECU, sorry to say: NO HOPE!

15. finally, full engine balancing. usually after u don't have anything to add anymore.

tips for saga megavalve owners: use wira 1.5 block. it has lighter internals. and use wira 1.5 injection standard camshaft. u will feel power increase after installing the mentioned items

tuning tips for beginners: try to keep as many things standard as possible, because they are cheaper to replace when they break down.
tune engine regularly. make sure fuel supply is enough.

p/s change to bigger displacement engine-better! no hassle...


sorry kalau silap...
anyone care to add??? please correct me if i'm wrong. i will add more info when i can recall them.

Source; www.terato.com

Silent_Night wrote:

Selamat pagi Bro Blugu... that was a brilliant and 'mantapzz' information.....believe me...i''ll copy out that stuff and make a file for it...Blugu..can u do like this...show a picture of any part and u explain more about that part?

I believe i manage to put some modification guide picture in the Engine & Performance Section, please do read all about it. Most of it gave a detail/brief explanation on what to do and a guide to do it.

thank you so much master!!! good information.. i`ll keep it ....

If you guys prefer to read more on the other manufacturer (Toyota, Nissan, etc... ) please visit this site,

http://www.fracknaps.com/read/?p=ZSBUSBB2

Beginners
Guide to Tuning - Engine Tuning

PERFORMANCE AIR FILTERS There are many performance filters on the market that will replace your car's stock air filter. There may be variants in design and construction materials but they will all produce the same benefits, increased air-throughput resulting in increased engine power (up to 5%). They will also last longer than a conventional filter as they can be cleaned and re-used. Performance Air Filters EXHAUSTS Standard exhausts compromise top-end power to reduce noise levels and ensure smooth power curves. Performance exhausts gain extra power by eliminating the compromise. Replacing standard baffled boxes with straight through silencers reduces restriction and increases power. Large bore pipe-work and modified manifold tract lengths are also used to maximise flow. There are many types of exhaust. Which you want and what your car needs may be different, so choose wisely. BACK BOXES The most cost-effective way to upgrade your exhaust is to replace the back box only, as this is where the original exhaust suffers most restriction. This modification will increase power, improve looks and emit a deeper sound. Peak gains rarely breach 5bhp, but you should be happy with the increase in throttle response. PERFORMANCE CHIPS Performance chips remove the allowances set by the manufacture to improve areas such as fuel economy. Aspirated cars gain around 5 to 10bhp and extra torque. On turbocharged cars including diesels, the chips also increase turbo boost pressure, which ups the power dramatically. The only disadvantage with a mass produced chip is that it has a set program and cannot be adapted to ensure that any other modifications that have been made to aid performance are running at their optimum.

INDUCTION KITS Induction kits are designed to replace the car's restrictive air-box system. These kits can offer power gains of up to 10% by drawing in plenty of cold air. But be aware, if they are unable to draw on cold air you will not benefit from the design. It is essential the kit is set up with adequate cold-air feed pipes and is protected from heat. Also check that the oil used with the kit will not have any effect on the operation of the air flow meter, as on some models it can like later Volkswagen Group vehicles. Induction Kits CAT-BACK SYSTEMS Performance systems that stretch from the catalyst back are more expensive, but offer improved peak power gains of up to 8bhp. MANIFOLDS Replacing your car's iron manifold with a tuned tubular steel version can offer good gains. Quality manifolds can deliver good improvements in both mid-range torque and peak power. They are rarely cheap, but will transform the output of highly tuned engines. CATALYSTS & PIPES The catalyst causes major restrictions to airflow, reducing your car's total power output. By fitting a 'Cat pipe' the catalyst is removed and replaced by a straight piece of tube. But it is illegal to remove a catalyst from a car registered after 1986. Another option is to fit a performance catalyst. This keeps the car road legal but with the benefits of the extra power. MAPPED ECU'S An ECU (electronic control unit) can be mapped to run all of the modifications on a modified car. To maximise the possible gains of running a larger output turbo and up-rated injectors a mapped ECU is the only answer. If a team who know their electronics do mapping, the results can be awesome.

Nissan Skyline GT-R Tuning - GUIDE


Under the hood (stock 170 to 180 awkw)
The legendary RB26DETT lies under the hood of the R32, R33 and R34 GTR
in different forms but the tuning basics remain the same. The engine is
similar to that found in the rest of the nissan skyline range but it’s
a more hardcore race style engine built for Group A racing in Japan.
Featuring twin cams, 24 valves, solid lifters and a six-throttle inlet
manifold the nissan skyline was claimed to produce 206kw in reality the
actual power figure is much closer to 260kw. Induction is via twin
garret turbochargers with ceramic exhaust wheels and air is cooled by a
large front mount intercooler. This nissan skyline engine is said to be
strong enough to support 600hp with a standard bottom end.

Engine Tuning Stage 1
Exhaust
The RB26DETT is a sweet sounding engine but very quiet in standard form
and as with most factory turbo cars the exhaust causes a huge
restriction. A good free flowing exhaust will have your nissan skyline
sounding great, turbo lag will be reduced, and power gained throughout
the rev range. 15+ awkw achievable

Start with a cat back exhaust either get a local exhaust shop to make
it or buy a after market one. Either way make sure it is at least 3
inches in diameter and has high flow mufflers. This is the cheapest
option and will provide good results. For better results start the
exhaust from the turbo's. Dump pipes from the turbo’s can either be a
3" open bell mouth or better still a split pipe design to separate the
gases from the turbine and wastegate. However if you choose split dump
pipes make sure there is at least 40cm of separation before they spit
pipe rejoins the main pipe. another 10+ awkw achievable

Intake
Now we have the exhaust side of your nissan skyline breathing the next
step is to get more air into the engine. Either use a high performance
air filter, or replace the air box with a POD style air filters. If you
choose to go the POD filter route I recommend you fabricate some type
of shield to keep hot air from the engine bay away from your intake. A
cold air intake to the filters from the front of your Skyline will also
give you a performance advantage. 5-10 awkw is achievable

Boost increase
Boost should not be increased above 1 bar with the standard GTR turbo’s
because the ceramic exhaust wheels will fail if to much heat is
produced. The N1 GTR is equipped with larger turbo’s with steel wheels
in this case you can run 1.5 bar, efficiency runs out above this boost
level. The good news is that GTR's are equipped with a boost restrictor
from factory and once this is removed you can run 1 bar of boost. To do
this locate the yellow banded hose which is connected to the boost
solenoid, there will be a lump where the yellow band is, remove this
restrictor and you will have 1 bar of boost. Alternatives include a
electronic or manual boost controller.

A manual controller is very basic in its operation it bleeds off air
causing the wastegate actuator to open later. The amount of boost run
depends on the amount of air bled form the system. It is critical to
install an after market boost gauge before carrying out this
modification as the stock gauge is not accurate enough. Manual boost
controllers are cheep and easy to install but they do have there
disadvantages, some can cause boost spikes, and boost creep. I have
also found boost tends to tail off high in the rev range.

Electronic boost controllers on the other hand use stepper motors and
monitor boost about every 10th of a second because of this boost spikes
and boost creep are kept to a minimum, and the desired boost level is
held to redline. Electronic boost controllers are expensive and for
this level of modification a manual controller will probably be good
enough but better still just remove the restrictor. 15+ awkw is possible


Cam Gears
At this stage the Nissan skyline will benefit from a set new cam gears
which are relatively cheap. The outright power will be increased but
the main reason for installing cam gears is for a fatter torque and
power curve. Upgraded cams can help reduce lag, improve mid range, and
top end power. HKS, GREADY most other Japanese manufactures make cams
and have proven to give good results. 10kw+ can be achieved

ECU
Nissan ECU's tend to run rich when extra air flow in introduced this
hurts performance you have a few options to fix this problem. An
aftermarket ECU will give good power gains and improve drivability one
popular option is the Apexi SAFC (Super air flow computer). The SAFC is
a piggy back to the ECU and works by tricking the ECU into thinking
your engine is getting more or less air than it actually is. Tuning
should be done be a professional on a dyno, this modification will fix
your air/fuel ratio but you cannot change other variables like timing
ect with the SAFC.

better but more expensive option is the Apexi Power FC which
replaces the standard ECU. Many people choose the Power FC as it’s less
expensive than other aftermarket ECU's, and it plugs straight into you
old loom so there is no need to cut any wires. All parameters of your
car can be tuned with a Power FC but once again it should be dyno tuned
by a professional. Please note the power FC.

Another option is to get your standard ECU remapped this is a good idea
if your not planning future modifications. If you are however the Power
FC is a better option as you will save money in tuning costs. 20+ awkw
is achievable

Clutch and Flywheel
At this level of modification it’s likely that the stock nissan skyline
clutch will need upgrading to handle the extra power. If you are
launching the car hard (drag racing ect) the standard clutch will wear
out quickly and need upgrading. Popular upgrades include the Exeedy
range of clutches. Many people choose to upgrade the flywheel at the
same time a lightened fly wheel will improve acceleration.

Conclusion (up to 250 awkw with stage 1 modifcations)
This completes stage 1 engine tuning for the nissan skyline GTR.
Basically at this stage we are at the limits of the standard turbo and
fuel systems but in terms of car modification this level of tuning is
offers great value for money. Many people with these modifications with
and a well sorted suspension and tyre packages have run low 12 to high
11 second quarter mile passes.


Engine Tuning Stage 2
Stage 2 of tuning is where things start to get expensive as we need to
upgrade many of the standard systems. Nissan Skyline RB engines are
known for the strength and the RB26DETT is the strongest animal with
regular maintenance and a safe tune 330+ awkw is possible.

Turbo Selection
Many good turbo options are available for the Nissan Skyline GTR I
recommend turbo’s that will bolt onto standard manifolds, this will
save time and money in the long run. Popular models include;
HKS 2510 response close to stock with slight power increase
HKS GTSS responsive turbo with max power output of around 300 awkw
Nissan N1, Garrett 2560r, HKS2530 are similar to each other, a good
compromise between lag and max power, and 350+ awkw is possible.

Fuel system
The GTR fuel pump and injectors are good for levels up 265rwkw, any
more than this and you are starting to push safe limits. Popular
upgrades include pumps from bosch, walbro, and tomei. Nengun.com has
many injector and fuel pump upgrades available for the Nissan Skyline
GTR just remember to choose items which will support your power target
and allow some room for future upgrades if need be.

Intercooler Upgrade
The GTR Nissan Skyline intercooler runs out of its efficiency range at
power levels above 300rwkw and needs to be upgraded. Many aftermarket
bolt on kits are available for the GTR starting at around AU$1000 but
as with most things you get what you pay for. Be aware a small decrease
in throttle response may be noticeable due to the extra piping and
larger core size.

Airflow Meter's
To improve the tunability of the engine its a good idea to upgrade your
airflow meter's this allows for finer tuning which will result in
smoother power delivery and make it easier for the tuner to produce a
higher peak power output . Popular upgrade choices include the Z32 and
the Q45. The Z32 is cheaper of the 2 but the Q45 will allow more
airflow.

Airflow meters
How they work
Air is measured using a sensor and this value is converted to a voltage
which the ECU see's. For example 4 volts is the measured at idol and
12v measured at full thottle (im not sure what the actual values are).
Engines are tuned by using both the airflow meter and engine RPM.

Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters maximum power they can messure

Number of AFMS 1 2
RB26 149 299 65mm
RB20/RB25 226 453 80mm
Z32 255 511 80mm
Q45 302 605 90mm

Airflow-meters alow more presice tuning but you can still tune your
engine when exeeding flow limits by using the RPM scale. For example
you could use a single Z32 AFM for a engine producing over 300rwkw

ECU
If you have not done so already the ECU will need to be upgraded as
stated before the Power FC is a popular option due to its price, ease
of installation, and use. There are plenty of other options that are
superior to the Power FC and allow many other tuning functions like
launch control, and the ability to use a map sensor instead of the
airflow meter. But the FC is still a popular and is proven to perform.

Head Gasket
Running boost levels above 1.2 may require a new metal head gasket to
lower compression and improve reliability. Opinions differ on this
subject so I think its best to ask you tuner.

Clutch and flywheel
The stock clutch will certainly fail quickly at this power level the
hardest part is finding a clutch that will handle the power yet not
make your car a pig to drive. Exeedy seem to be popular and reliable
choice and while you are upgrading your clutch a lightened flywheel is
well worth considering. This will help the car rev quicker but the
trade off is your car will loose momentum quicker to.

Cams
At this stage the Nissan skyline will benefit from a set new cams. The
outright power will be increased but the main reason for installing
cams is for a fatter torque and power curve. Upgraded cams can help
reduce lag, improve mid and top end power. Popular choice is tomei pon
cams as they fit without modification and are proven to give good
results.

Source; www.zerotohundred.com

gud info bro....

erm..

klau perodua viva ni mcm mana maw upgrade engine dia ni??
saya punya 1000cc bah..jadi klau bagus mana satu..
sama ada tukar engine atau tukar piston??
engine ni sesuai ka? L700s/710v(EF-DET) M/C after - 659cc 12v dohc 64ps/6.4Krpm 10.4kg-m/3.2Krpm turbo...
atau memang rare maw jumpa??

klau tukar piston ni makan minyak ka?
dengar2 ni japan punya engine mira dulu2..kurang makan minyak automatic 20km/l..

Danix wrote:

erm..

klau perodua viva ni mcm mana maw upgrade engine dia ni??
saya punya 1000cc bah..jadi klau bagus mana satu..
sama ada tukar engine atau tukar piston??
engine ni sesuai ka? L700s/710v(EF-DET) M/C after - 659cc 12v dohc 64ps/6.4Krpm 10.4kg-m/3.2Krpm turbo...
atau memang rare maw jumpa??

klau tukar piston ni makan minyak ka?
dengar2 ni japan punya engine mira dulu2..kurang makan minyak automatic 20km/l..

ada org kasi BOT saja enjin nie, lebih kurang modified enjin kelisa

Jadi banyak la maw tukar ni...ekzos sdh tukar 5zigen ciplak kali di Chen soon tia taw la...rm298 tu...

ok la bro..thank you very much!

wow..very good info bro.. at least I learn something from this thread. I like this thread.

wwuu..Bagus ni INFO. Tq smua

PnP tidak sesuai untuk kereta baru rite? or? if oversize throttle body + safc2 + adjustable fuel regulator..boleh tahan ka?

kereta viva - ekzos tukar, v.s sama grounding wire. itu ja baru tukar.

Danix wrote:

PnP tidak sesuai untuk kereta baru rite? or? if oversize throttle body + safc2 + adjustable fuel regulator..boleh tahan ka?

kereta viva - ekzos tukar, v.s sama grounding wire. itu ja baru tukar.

Boleh...

kalau suda tukar fuel pump yg melampau kuat pressurenya, bolehla pakai Adjustable Fuel Regulator, kerana pakai SAFC2

fuel pump? erkz? tidak taw sudah..hihihi..

sy pasang safc2 + open pod klau boleh..
yg lain tu nanti dulu..

bro izinkanku utk copy
mau buat noted